Tuesday 14th July 2026
Blog Page 1251

Game of Thrones cares more about boners than storytelling

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Game of Thrones concluded its fifth season this past Monday, with a finale that encapsulated all that the show has got wrong as of late. The wheels have fallen off the show’s well oiled machine, with it foregoing political intrigue and personal conflicts in favour of gussied up expedition. At the same time, as the show’s story has become increasingly disinteresting, the show runners have instead chased spectacle, usually in the form of either visual effects, or harrowing, cruel, and tone-deaf scenes of shocking and misogynistic sexual violence. This has been the first season without a single female writer or director, and boy has it showed. Would we have spent so long over the last few seasons on Daenerys’ meandering, aimless, plot if she and her wig were not the young, of-age, nubile, female face of the show?

Already this season, two women have been raped in order to advance male bystanders’ narrative arcs, and now in the finale another, Cersei, is publicly sexually abused. It’s handled with all the nuance and restraint one would expect from the show that only one episode before utilised the imprisonment of a female assassin as an excuse for a needless prison cell striptease. That is to say, almost none. And so Cersei is coerced into admitting to sleeping with her cousin. In her horrendous fall from grace and consequent humiliation she is stripped, shorn, and forced to walk, naked and bleeding, through the streets of King’s Landing. The scene encapsulated Game of Throne’s fraught relationship between female characters and their sexuality on screen. The show features a vast array of wonderfully complex, fascinating and genuinely innovative female characters, in a world where being a women is to carry a target on your back. Yet for all the respect the show’s scripts afford to the show’s female cast, the camera’s lascivious glare tells a different story.

To rehash discussions of the show’s narrative misogyny, and to offer anything new is the prerogative of someone with a far more enlightened perspective than I. Instead, what I find so irritating about Game of Thrones is the way in which the show systematically and deliberately panders to its straight male audience, at the expense of its huge female and gay audiences, hiding behind a paper thin argument that they’re illustrating a patriarchal world. The systematic use of male-on-female sexual abuse as a narrative device conveys this just fine thanks, we don’t need, and don’t want, you to set every other political scene in a brothel, with disembodied breasts as frame filling set dressing to labour the point.

And so returning to Cersei’s walk of shame, we see the show’s conflicting interests perfectly, frustratingly encapsulated. The sequence cuts between close ups of actress Lena Heady’s visage, as she precisely plays a progression from determined pride through embarrassment, resolution, humiliation, violation, relief and finally rage. Compounding this emotional tour-de-force (Heady is surely a shoe in for a second Emmy nomination come awards time) are point of view shots which allows us to experience the venom and invasiveness of the amassed crowds from Cersei’s perspective. But then there are the unnecessarily frequent wide shots, complete with dodgy face replacement effects, where the composition instructs us to stare upon her naked body, sharing in the crowd’s ogling, even as the sequence, and human decency, suggests one should look away (the uncomfortable class dynamic where we’re to look upon the “othered” hordes of the great unwashed whilst sharing in their disgust and leering gaze is also somewhat uncomfortable).

That the show also used a body double for Cersei’s nakedness, choosing to give her the body of a 20 year old glamour model, says everything about the show’s privileging of certain audiences and the heterosexual male gaze, even over the quality of storytelling. Would a more realistic, 40 year old woman’s naked body not have far better brought home the feelings of vulnerability and exposure so central to the scene and to Cersei’s dramatic arc? Would this not have avoided reinforcing unreasonable expectations of women’s bodies, particularly ageing ones, in one of the few times they’ve been represented on screen in the show? Instead, some 12-year old’s first boner has been prioritised over the effectiveness of the entire season’s denouément, whilst at the same time encouraging the sexualisation of a systemically victimised woman.

What’s worse, the show can’t conceive of her struggle outside of its own raging madonna-whore complex. Cersei is caught between the earthly realities of her public sexual identity, and the idealised, elevated maternity represented by her son, holed up in the Castle to which she frequently gazes skyward, as her source of strength. Only a select few female characters are awarded convincing characteristics outside of this simplistic dichotomy.

Whats more, this is not an isolated incident, and it’s not an equal opportunities thing. There’s a gross imbalance between male and female nudity, and this isn’t just a numbers game. It’s about the way these scenes are shot, the perspective the audience is invited to adopt, the narrative contrivances taken to get attractive characters in the nude. I’m glad Hodor got to flash his junk and all, but why wasn’t it Daario’s instead? It’s not like the straight male audience are being served anything outside of 2015’s gym honed, juice cleansed and almost hairless ideal of the female form. Or how about we just stop wasting precious minutes on serving the base interests of a specific audience, when that time could be used to unfurl a narrative that already strains against its hour-long runtimes? If you want to stare at tits, go on Google. Audiences tune in for adventure, not unnecessary areola.

I want to keep watching the show. I’ve invested 50 hours into it, and countless more reading, talking, and thinking about it. But, as a gay man, this becomes increasingly difficult with every lingering shot and leering pan over a rogue boob serving as a reminder that the show is catering to a demographic into which I definitely don’t fit. And when this titillation comes at the expense of the storytelling, it’s incredibly frustrating. Surely we can all be a little more discerning, than to demand our pathos with a side of good-looking genitalia.

Fashion Matters: Homophobia and Homoeroticism

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Men of all sexual orientations enjoy gazing at the male body – take a look at any number of Hollywood action films, men’s fitness magazine covers, or underwear packaging to see that this is inarguably the case. The fashion industry knows this. They rely on images of idealised masculine forms in order to sell their menswear lines. Their campaign images routinely imagine heightened homosocial worlds of male bonding. But this homoeroticism has its own type of latent homophobia. Homosexuality within these images is relentlessly controlled and denied, even whilst it is overtly insinuated. What results is a confusing and shameful perspective on male homosexuality, in one of the few industries where its image is promoted in the relative mainstream.

The fashion industry’s creation of the metrosexual, dreamt up in a boardroom sometime in the 90s in order to expand out of gay markets, required imagery that sold an unattainable hyper-masculinity to its new “straight” audience. Hence campaigns presenting homoeroticism that denies its homosexuality. And so Oscar Wilde’s “love that dare not speak its name” remains silent.

Take a look at recent campaigns. Dolce and Ganbana, the design duo who recently declared that “the only family is the traditional one,” stock their menswear imagery with deeply suggestive tableaux of Sicilian machismo and male bonding. But the extent to which these images acknowledge their homosexual subtext is limited to the models’ regard of the viewer. In art theory, the traditional relationship of painter and subject is that women are looked at, whilst men do the looking. But we know that these campaigns are designed to sell to and be seen by men. Thus the masculine subjects are sneakily subject to a homosexual male gaze. So despite these images being produced by a fashion house run by two gay men, homosexuality is only hinted at, toyed with, but ultimately denied. It remains shameful.

But the fashion world marches on with its own vision of progress. Commentators have pointed towards the recent queering of gender as a sign of fashion taking a more flexible approach to notions of masculinity. Designers like Dries Van Noten, JW Anderson, and most recently, Gucci’s groundbreaking Autumn/Winter 2015 Menswear Collection have all shown off determinedly androgynous conceptions of gender. But these are queering gender, not the body, and beyond the underground of Fashion Weeks, collections and markets remain divided into mens and womenswear. And so the male market must be maintained, ensuring a continuing parade of deified male physiques and images of hyper-masculinity in which there is no room for homosexuality.

This despite the male fashion industry being largely homosexual in production and reception, which makes these campaigns all the more frustrating. They acknowledge their audience, but enforce narratives of denial and unfulfilment which have plagued gay culture for decades. And there’s a wealth of evidence that these images of deliberately unattainable masculine forms affect a gay audience most acutely. Of men who suffer from eating disorders, 42% identify as gay, whilst homosexual men are twelve times more likely to report binging and purging cycles than their heterosexual counterparts.

Obviously, looking for responsible imagery from an industry that sells unattainable fantasies would be misguided. Yet I believe it’s important to be aware of the hidden messages these fantastical images encourage you to receive and internalise day in and day out.

Review: Force Majeure

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★★★★☆

Four Stars

The creeping power of an avalanche sets in motion the forward march of a family’s breakdown in Ruben Östlund’s Force Majeure. Currently doing a victory lapof arthouse cinemas, the films is a must-see that set alight last year’s Cannes, sweeping up the Jury Prize on its way to crashing into cinemas a year later. It’s a powerful, affecting and brutally intense drama that takes place high amongst the French Alps. We follow a beautiful, affluent, apparently happy nuclear family, as they ski, eat and relax together in the mountaintop hotel. Until a cascade of snow descends upon their resort, and their true natures are exposed.

The film is excruciatingly tense right from the beginning.The hotel perches precariously against the vastness of the mountains. An intrusive janitor watches the family a little too closely. We hear muffled conversations and sneaky asides – rifts in this family’s perfect veneer which seem destined to break into yawning cracks. And all the while, we watch, at a distance, as director Östlund controls the pace, forcing us to observe long ski-lift rides, gradual movements along a conveyor belt, long silences as the family wait for food. We watch as the parents absent-mindedly stop watching their children – perhaps just for a crucial moment too long. In these moments we feel a simmering heat, unexpressed grievances, the first particles that will gather momentum and a million other unexpressed feelings until these people’s frustrations become an unstoppable force. It’s nail-biting stuff, and a real feat of directorial ingenuity.

The incredible adult cast – led by Johannes Kuhnke and Lisa Loven Kongsli – are uniformly wonderful. Kuhnke in particular is magnificent as the family’s patriarch as he begins to realise just how delicate his self-worth and masculinity are. Konglsi too delivers incredible work in the less showy role of the mother, precisely revealing the frustrations and claustrophobia she feels being caught between her independence and allegiance to the family unit she’s formed. Both are incredibly cast, he with all the openess and breezy masculinity of dad-bodded Scandinavian Stephen Dorff, she haughty, classically beautiful, perhaps a little too calculating. Both are able to convey character just by being. The chemistry between the two is white hot, almost searingly so. A late night tooth-brush session in front of the bathroom mirror expresses everything in the silence. They’re a magnetic pair, almost a force of nature.

The minor key of the story allows us to scrutinise every choice each character makes, parse out the extent to which personal vendettas cloud their clear judgement. These characters are flawed, bitter, selfish, and all the more understandable for it. We chastise their arrogance, and that of the resort itself, attempting to offer respite and safety from the cruel elements whilst sitting so delicately on a ledge – one stunning late night drone sequence in particular captures this, as blinking red lights nip across the creaking, monolithic mountains. The film is a real tale of fire and ice, warmth and coldness. Expressive closeup invites us into the characters’ minds, then demands objective judgement by deploying a well-timed long shot. The film finds its rhythms, and plays them at an ever-increasing intensity. It is a tour de force of storytelling, taking huge risks and stylistic gambles which never feel showy or forced.

Force Majeure is a marvel. It’s gut wrenching, devastating, and not to be missed.

Review: Oxford Revue

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★★★★★

Five Stars

In a word, brilliant. On Saturday night a packed-out Oxford Playhouse was treated to two uproarious hours billed as the Oxford Revue and Friends. During those two hours we were subject to everything from a finger broken during an anal examination, to the Hogwarts student who died from starvation after Harry Potter bought everything from the trolley. Variety, depravity and hilarity: the unholy Trinity that made this one of the best things I have seen on the Oxford stage. 

We opened with Dan Byam Shaw, whose provocative spoken word piece extolled the miseries of being a white man barred on grounds of colour and gender from social justice campaigning. A very incisive piece, perhaps more thought provoking than it was funny but nonetheless a very worthy opener. It was especially good to see comedy that engaged frankly with actual Oxford issues.

Next, Alex Fox presented a one-man mini-family drama by acting out two sons and their relationship with their father. The first son was a rah on steroids (“if you are what you eat, then I eat legend”), the second a forgotten younger brother, bullied into mild depression. This was a fascinating one-man show for it was as compelling as it was hilarious. While sometimes true that comedy has tragedy at its heart, this piece couldn’t quite reconcile the two. In the end we were left wanting an ending as brilliant as the overall execution and conception.

The final piece by George McGoldrick consisted in a series of imaginary letters. They were all delivered in a sardonic nasal monotone which somehow worked for all the letters. The highlight must have been the Harry Potter story, just fantastic. 

Next we saw the Cambridge Footlights. Surprisingly sparse, there were only two of them. They were nonetheless a highly dynamic duo with a lot of ingenuity and skill. However, theyir style didn’t quite fit the tone of the evening. Theirs was a much quieter form of humour based on word puns and the like. These were often executed with lengthy build-ups or delivered in short one to three line sketches. The result was funny but not hilarious. In this respect, following their suggestion that this was a Varsity comedy match, the Tabs were well and truly shoed. 

This brings us to the highlight of the evening, the Revue. What is striking about their style is how carefully, in fact often meticulously crafted their sketches are. There is very much a method in this madness: they really know when and how to put in the laughs for maximum effect. One sketch for example showed us a recitation of a GCSE drama piece. Apart from being spot-on as regard the ridiculous hoop-jumping that it entails (“I am bullied on social media…”) it was a fantastically well-structured sketch. Like a magic trick, it built up to a ‘prestige’- a final trick that you didn’t see coming. In this case, Jack Chisnall, who was awkwardly standing at the back, was pushed as a door. Everyone in the audience who ever did GCSE drama exploded with laughter. 

Their thought/intuition/voodoo/whatever it is that makes their pieces so well rounded and crafted, was complemented by their immense skill. They are in their own right actors, musicians, mimes and much more. The one moment that summed up their sheer virtuosity was a short sketch in which we saw two football fans chanting at a match. The chanting however gradually gave way into classical music. In one particularly impressive feat they went from “Ryan Giggs Ryan Giggs” to Beethoven’s Fur Elise. Another very impressive performance was a song imitating a GCSE French Oral. Switching between a generic description of going to the train station and a question on feminism, it just summed up every bullshit language oral exam I’ve ever sat through. 

All in all a fantastic evening. What was borderline inspiring about the whole thing was the sheer energy, commitment and professionalism of them all. If indeed they keep this up perhaps they too might join the pantheon of the Revue. Well who knows, but if indeed you ever get a chance to see the Revue, make absolutely sure that you go!

 

Review: His Dark Materials, Part 2

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★★★★☆

Four Stars

Philip Pullman’s fantasy saga is transported effortlessly to the stage in this adaptation by Laura Cull. The action takes place across a plethora of different worlds, transforming in an instant from the stark light of the ‘Magisterium’ to a murky underworld with translucent curtains draped across a smoke-infused stage. The flexibility of the set is, in fact, one of the greatest achievements of the production, offering a platform for the imaginative conception of the trilogy’s mysterious universe. Triangular white sheets slice the area on the stage, providing various pockets and podiums where more intimate scenes can take place. The lighting has a similar effect; in the opening montage, the flash of a spotlight momentarily illuminates sections of the stage as the audience is taken on a crash-course of the first novel. Though a little confusing to follow, the scene has a kind of dislocating effect on the audience that adds to the fantastical nature of the play. 

The scene introduces us to Lyra Silvertongue and Will Parry, played by Becky Lenihan and Gregory Coates respectively, and we embark with them on their journey to battle against the self-interest and power-hunger of the forces they encounter. The two actors are paired perfectly, each managing to capture a youthful sense of adventure and defiance. The audience witnesses their gradual maturity and growing affection for one another, though a kiss between the two towards the end of the play feels somewhat over-sensual for a girl and boy only just reaching their teenage years. Their relationship is heart-warming nonetheless, and we cannot help but root for them as they face new opposition from the authoritarian church and their ambitious parents. Speaking of which, the performances of Robyn Murphy and Tom Fawcett cannot go unmentioned. Murphy is sultry and seductive in her role as Lyra’s manipulative mother, Mrs Coulter, whilst Fawcett’s booming voice is eclipsing as Lord Asriel, and astoundingly more thunderous still when he shifts to playing Iorek Byrnison.

The fact that the same actor can slip so easily between man and supernatural creature is indicative of the smoothness with which realism and fantasy are blended in this production. The puppeteers on the stage that mimic the actions of the dæmons they control are not only unobtrusive, they actually enhance the tensions on the stage. Their facial expressions reveal the subtle emotions that pass between characters in conversation. Each puppeteer fully inhabits the character of their dæmon, twitching and crawling in an animalistic manner. So convincing are these dæmons that they have the power to invoke fear in the audience, with James Soulsby’s menacing monkey cutting a threatening figure on the stage.

But for all its concern with the fantastical aspects of the play, the production doesn’t lose sight of its political message. In an early scene the head of the Magisterium ceremoniously presents Brother Jasper with a medallion, declaring that all crimes committed whilst wearing it will be absolved. It is an ominous reminder of how easily authority can lead to the abuse of power. Religion and wealth become a means of justifying the unjustifiable, and the innocence of the two children in the face such deception serves as a beacon of hope and purity. This is a classic tale of good pitted against evil that will let you reminisce in the days of dystopian literature you read as a child.

This is not to say that the production is without fault; several scenes feel a little clumsy and forced, with a father-son recognition situation coming across more amusing than endearing (‘Wait…let me look at you in the light…you’re my son!’). But it’s an ambitious project, and it’s been executed with innovation and enthusiasm. It allows you to drift into an alien world, or worlds, and doesn’t release you until the final blackout.

Review: Play and That Time

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★★★★☆

Four Stars

Beckett is notoriously hard to do well, and especially works like Play and That Time which rely on carefully orchestrated repetition. This production competently and effectively brought Beckett’s works to the audience of the Burton Taylor, through an inherently claustrophobic stage formation.

The three characters of Play were onstage already, staring at the audience and seemingly already in the process of repeating the arguments that compose the work in their heads. Trapped in their urns – which, being dustbins, recall elements of Endgame not unpleasantly – what must have been hard work by the three actors paid off, enunciating and never missing a beat of the logorrhoea.  Brown, Sayer and Greenfield work well together in order to create the sense of disparateness. There were moments of restlessness which occasionally broke the effect, however on the whole it was a successful performance.

The central character of That Time is a difficult role which was pulled off admirably. Essentially performing someone else’s monologue, the protagonist is stuck with his own laboured breathing. However, the rhythm was kept, and his acting struck the needed balance between choreography and genuine reaction to the persecuting voices. Due to the lack of visual stimulation, That Time can be quite a tiring play for the audience, and I’m not sure that this was fully avoided throughout. Yet, despite certain dips, I think Roderick kept the audience’s attention for the vast majority. He was certainly a striking presence onstage.

The lighting – a crucial element of the works – was on point throughout. The timing between lighting cues and actors was impeccable, which tied the works together seamlessly. The spotlight ‘interrogating’ the characters in Play was quick and comfortably reactionary. That Time was less demanding, but the positioning of the character under the full glare of the spotlight, and right up close to the audience, used the interplay between light and dark that the small stage of the BT allows for, to great effect.

Make-up was uniform, which allowed for continuity between the two separate plays and gave the impression of decay and exhaustion. However, there was perhaps scope for some differentiation in the case of That Time, even if it were simply to prompt the audience to study the character’s face in more detail. Having it the same made the face seem unimportant, when of course it is vital to the actor’s performance. A more different make-up structure may have been the way to address the issue of a lack of visual stimulation.

Combining the two plays was a clever move by Jones, and much can be read into and taken from the juxtaposition. Beckett can be tiring and confusing, especially for the unwitting viewer. However, leaving the theatre, a fellow audience member turned to their companion and asked, “Is it supposed to be that way?” – and personally, I would have to say “yes.”

Controversy as NUS affiliates with anti-Israeli BDS movement

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The NUS has voted for the first time to affiliate officially with the Boycott, Divestment and Sanctions (BDS) movement against Israel. Previously, they had expressed support for the strategy but not affiliated to the official movement.

In a meeting of the NUS’s National Executive Committee last week, a BDS amendment to a motion entitled ‘Justice for Palestine’ was passed 19-15, with one abstention. The motion included resolutions to lobby companies with investments in Israel and to assist student-led BDS campaigns.

The BDS movement operates on a global basis and aims to pressure Israel into agreeing to change its policy on Palestine. Key demands of the BDS movement include the end to occupation of Palestinian lands, equal citizenship rights for Arab-Palestinians and the right of Palestinians to return to their original homes according to UN resolution 194. On its website, the movement describes itself as ‘a strategy that allows people of conscience to play an effective role in the Palestinian struggle for justice’.

The motion was originally due to be considered at the NUS National Conference in April, but was postponed due to a lack of debating time at the conference itself. At a meeting of OUSU Council in March, a motion to mandate Oxford’s NUS conference delegates not to vote against any anti-BDS motion failed by a margin of 72-30, with 28 abstentions. This would have meant that Oxford’s delegates would have been able to vote as they chose had the issue come before NUS conference.

James Elliott, Oxford delegate at the NUS Disabled Students’ Conference, has come under fire for voting in favour of BDS on the National Executive Committee. Ben Goldstein, who proposed the motion at OUSU Council in March, told Cherwell, “BDS hurts efforts for a peaceful resolution to the Arab-Israeli conflict – the two-state solution is the only internationally-recognised peace plan yet leaders of the BDS movement have called for a one state solution and ‘euthanasia’ of Israel. BDS is an obstacle to peace.

“Additionally, motion 518a highlights the duplicity of BDS activists. BDS was voted in by the NUS NEC, which is made up of a mere 30 members, as opposed to gaining a proper democratic mandate at NUS National Conference. In Oxford, BDS activists have also misrepresented the truth. Consistently, we were told that any BDS motion that comes up at NUS would be of a limited and moderate nature.

“James Elliott told a Somerville JCR meeting that ‘a blanket BDS motion can’t come up at NUS Conference’, claiming the ‘only debate on NUS policy would be on the current policy’.

Yet, at NEC he voted for a motion that affiliates our national student union with the official BDS Movement – a radical organisation, calling for precisely the ‘blanket BDS’ that many Oxford students had serious concerns with.”

James Elliott defended his stance to Cherwell, saying, “I am accountable to students at NUS Disabled Students Conference, and nowhere else, and at NEC I voted in line with my campaign’s policy as mandated, which is in favour of BDS. If a few grumbling individuals in Oxford have an issue with that, then it doesn’t bother me.

“I have always been very public about my support for BDS, and I was delighted that NUS took this further step in strengthening our policy and challenging Israeli apartheid.

“If anyone wants to get involved in NUS campaigns like this, they should of course get in touch.” 

No confidence in former OUSU RO

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OUSU Council has passed a vote of no confidence in former Returning Officer Alex Walker. The motion passed with 38 votes for, two votes against, and 15 abstentions.

Walker was OUSU’s Returning Officer in Trinity Term 2014, and as a result was in office during the referendum held on NUS membership, later found to have been rigged.

The motion, proposed by Jack Matthews and seconded by Will Obeney, noted the rigging of the referendum and the subsequent lack of clarity as to the progress of the proctors’ investigation into it, as well as noting that Walker “gave a direction that only the Returning Officer would be able to attend the count, contrary to normal practice”.

It went on to note, “During the referendum, Alex Walker removed the Democratic Support Officer’s access to the online ballot system,” and, “Alex Walker generated approximately 1,400 more voter codes than there are registered students in the University. Common practice is to generate around 200 [more].”

Following a protest from the leader of the ‘No’ campaign, the decision on attendance of the count was overturned, and the Democratic Support Officer also had their access to the system restored.

The motion also noted “that these voter codes were used to systematically rig the Referendum result, with these fraudulent votes representing over 30 per cent of the total votes cast.”

The motion called for “those responsible” to be held to account, and expressed disappointment that the proctors’ investigation was not progressing at a sufficient pace.

The motion further claimed, “As a minimum, Alex Walker’s actions and decisions as Returning Officer allowed for the defrauding of the electorate” and “that Alex Walker’s behaviour was improper, anti-democratic, and unscrupulous – betraying the responsibility he had been given to serve Oxford students as their Returning Officer”.

Matthews commented, “Council has now debated this matter; with the facts being presented, and the discussion properly mediated. I wholeheartedly stand by my decision to bring this motion to Council – the place which not only has the right, but the responsibility to make these resolutions so fundamental to the preservation of our democratic system.

“It is right that the motion passed, and that we have not allowed this dark episode in our history go past without holding to account those who allowed it to happen. Our democracy is at the core of everything OUSU does and must be defended always.”

Walker resigned in late May 2014, and has since resigned his membership of OUSU.

When asked for comment, Walker reiterated the comments he made to Cherwell in February, when he said, “I don’t quite know why Jack is so intent on pursuing this nasty little vendetta, and I don’t particularly care. Their motion is factually incorrect, omits vital information, is totally misleading, and most of all, just plain silly.

“I’m not a particular fan of the nauseating Jack Matthews Show, and since my resignation from OUSU I have been better off for its absence. I will now, like every other student at this university, continue to ignore student politicians like Jack and get on with my life.” 

Travelling to the Seventies

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H&M jumpsuit

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River Island wrap, Topshop top and River Island skirt

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Zara top and River Island trousers

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Zara gilet and Zara dungarees

 

Concept, Styling and Direction: Rosie Gaunt

Photography: Alexander Hoare

Model: Elizabeth Debski

Location: Cafe Tarifa, Oxford

 

The blogging business according to Kayture

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“I have a website with photos of myself.” This is how Kristina Bazan described Kayture to her parents when she was trying to convince them to let her have a gap year after school to turn her blogging hobby into a full time career. To many people, the world of blogging seems as absurd and simple as that. Bazan’s talk to the Guild, and that which followed by her business partner James Chardon, proved it is anything but.

Blogging has taken Bazan and Chardon all over the world. In the week that they came to Oxford they travelled from Idaho, to LA, to Oxford, to Japan, to London and then went on to Cannes. Most significantly it has taken them from a small village in Switzerland, where the two first met when Chardon was looking for models on whom to practice his photography, to Geneva and recently to LA, where three of the now six person team have just moved.

LA is an interesting question for Bazan. One would be forgiven for assuming that the move was because LA is the new New York in terms of fashion. Kayture isn’t the first fashion blog to move there: Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad recently left Milan to move to LA, and big brands like Burberry have started doing pop up shows over there. While Bazan agrees that LA is evolving into a West Coast fashion capital, she adds immediately, “But we moved to LA just for the music.” For the music? Indeed, any Kayturette (that’s what Bazan’s online following call themselves) could tell you that it is no secret that fashion isn’t Bazan’s one and only love; in an interview with The Coveteur, Bazan admits, “I always wanted to do music, and I thought that starting a blog would get me connected with people.” It’s clearly working.

But one has to wonder how they’ve made it so big in blogging when Chardon describes the “start-up” as having “no investment and no customers” and on top of that knowing that what Bazan really wanted to do was sing.

The answer is held, it seems, in that conversation with Bazan’s and Chardon’s parents, who challenged them to make a business plan to prove that they could monetise the blog and make it work within the year off. There are more than 70 million blogs on the web, according to Chardon, but very few have both a creative and a business brain on board from their very inception. “It’s a bit of a taboo,” Chardon says, “talking about blogging as a business,” as he launches into talking about USPs and whether you can measure influence like currency.

Apparently, it’s also tough trying to get a visa to the USA when you’re officially a ‘blogger manager’.This is a job which entails trying to convince Bazan to get an official Snapchat account (“one of the first influencers on the platform”) and negotiating sponsorships for trips, such as their recent trip to Cannes, for which they were offered a huge amount by a certain ice-cream company, which Chardon decided to reject in the end, because he’d never seen her eat said ice-cream and besides they have to keep the blog’s aesthetic in mind.

This is an aesthetic steeped in luxury, a market and its values that Bazan and Chardon understood, even if they couldn’t afford it, growing up in Switzerland. Bazan was the first face of Cartier and the first blogger to do a film for Louis Vuitton, just two of the big brands who they’ve been asked to work with again and again.

Brands like these have been rushing to invest in digital, and the best way it seems that they can do this is by investing in bloggers. Bazan explains, “Bloggers are better at creating a story than magazines, models are cold, and magazines are published monthly, while bloggers have a direct connection, and while it’s unlikely that any readers of the blog will buy a $10,000 watch, they’ll read the story about the brand and the product.”

It’s not just the big brands that are starting to cotton on to the attraction of big bloggers like Bazan, magazines are now not just featuring them in their street style sections but putting them on their front covers. “I’m actually getting my first cover of a really big magazine in a couple of months,” Bazan tells me. It’s taken a while, as “for a long time lots of people thought blogging was a passing trend.” It’s clearly not, but I wonder with the speed of technological advances what the future is for blogging and bloggers. “Video content, it’s not just about the picture and the text anymore.” How fitting for Bazan and her future music career, it’s almost as if they planned it.