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Rising from the flames

Effortlessly stylish and undeniably seductive this season’s addiction to grunge captures the essence of 90s rock, promoting a scruffy aesthetic whilst merging retro rockstar with runway’s haute couture. As designers fall for deep velvets, black leather and tantalising mesh it’s time to bring those bullrings out, put those platforms on and let down your messy hair.

For men, this look exploits the simplicity of monochrome, using both black and white to give a slender silhouette of the 90s rockstar complete with spray on skinny black jeans and plain white t-shirts. What appears to breathe life into the image is the selection of bold accessories that add different layers to the look, helping to recall the rebellious and care-free spirit of Kurt Cobain – the pioneer of the grunge aesthetic. Ignoring all conventional expectations for men’s fashion, grunge welcomes brothel creepers, rounded sunglasses and tousled hair as the perfect accompaniments to the simple frame. Saint Laurent’s Spring Summer 2016 runway saw the revival of the look with the use of oversized black leather jackets, with zips and studs embellishing the already iconic accessory – irrevocably reminiscent of the archetypal 90s rocker. The renewal of grunge marks a significant progression in men’s fashion as boundaries become blurred as male models walk the runway in both materials and accessories once deemed appropriate for womenswear alone. Men’s jewellery is an almost fundamental element of the grunge aesthetic, with numerous chains and pendants of different lengths and designs adding to the look’s overall apathy, whilst facial piercings are also endorsed as welcome additions. Whereas velvet and mesh were once considered more effeminate fabrics, grunge encourages the sporting of black velvet sweatshirts and dark mesh t-shirts which work perfectly with the glint of necklaces underneath.

Womenswear marks an equal endorsement of grunge with the reappearance of deep velvets and heavy CAT boots indicative of the 90s biker chick. Once again, creepers and Doc Martens are used to add weight to the look, contrasting a heavy shoe with flared and frayed denim jeans typical of Marques Almeida, or perhaps some silk balloon trousers which can be used to elongate the frame and communicate a carefree and relaxed impression. Popular alternatives to loose trousers include long socks to accentuate leg length and the resurrection of fish net, pinstripe and even floral black tights which add another layer to the already intricate look. High skirts, made of leathers and velvets demonstrate this trend’s use of different fabrics whilst mesh tops over multi-strapped black bralets create a more interesting look. Rough edges work well for grunge, demonstrating the unpolished nature of the style, whilst oversized garments contribute to the apathy of the appearance. Black velvet chokers with small delicate pendants are a welcome addition, moving away from the clichéd plastic choker of the confused teen. Messy hair; dyed, bleached or highlighted is also key to the look’s disinterested character, whilst makeup should be heavy with a dark lip and smoky eye to create a similar effect.

The key to successful grunge is layering. Putting an interesting selection of materials, accessories and shapes together to give stylish slouch will secure the look. With deep colours and vintage styles, this trend encapsulates our favourite fashion classics and is magnetic in its regeneration of a once loved musical era.

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